Once in a lifetime otter experience for lucky isles environmental
visitor
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18th January, 2008
Jill Slee Blackadder
The Shetland Times, Lerwick, Shetland, Scotland
SCALLOWAY
Fire Festival presented the crowds with near perfect conditions for photographs
last Friday, with just enough breeze to give the flames some character,
but not enough to ruffle the black, glass smooth sea around the burning
galley. It is always far more enjoyable if you are with someone who has
never seen an Up-Helly-A' before.
This time I was with Ewan Walker, a visiting environmental impact assessor who,
sensibly, had taken a few days extra leave to see something of these islands
before returning to the city and was delighted that his visit coincided with
Scalloway's biggest night of the year. He hadn't expected to see much wildlife
at this time of year but the prospect of the burning galley created some very
wild images of its own.
The night was bitterly cold and the pavements icy. Breakwater rocks
were coated in sheet ice, but after the galley reached peak heat, the
warming air melted all the ice within its reach. As we watched, the exquisitely
symmetrical writhing flames, either side of their black waterline centre
looked like a mad, exploding insect with matching red and gold wings.
At times it was a moth, with delta flamed wings, then it was a tropical
mantis followed by an angry giant centipede. A swallow tail butterfly
broke through the dizzy image and in a slight gust of wind, it turned
into a pheasant in flight, trailing long tail feathers.
Later, over a cup of tea, Andrew and I listened to some of the highlights of
Ewan's handful of January days in Shetland. He had hoped very much to see an
otter while he was here, having only glimpsed one in his life, years before on
a stretch of mainland Scottish coastline. He kept his eyes open and made the
best of his brief visit, taking in parts of Whalsay, Skerries, Laxo, Voe, Fetlar
and Yell. He didn't manage to see just one otter, he had seen six, in just three
days! We couldn't wait to hear the details. I hope I have got them all right.
On his way from Whalsay to Voe, he noticed first, a dead otter, lying on the
roadside verge near the Laxo ferry turn off. Saddened that the only otter he
had seen was a dead one, he nevertheless took a picture of it, then headed on
to Voe. In Voe, after taking a lunch break at the pub, he wandered down to the
pier to make a call to his office when he spotted two otters playing in the water
only a few yards away. He couldn't believe his luck.
The otters were having a great time, diving, splashing, swirling round each other
and chasing through the water. Now and again they vanished, but always reappeared
soon afterwards. Eventually both otters disappeared and after waiting for several
minutes, Ewan turned and began to walk back up the pier to return to work. But
he hadn't gone more than a few yards when he heard a sudden splash. He turned
and caught a glimpse of one otter hitting the water from mid air and vanishing
beneath. He waited no more than a few seconds before it reappeared, emerging
like a missile from the sea and arcing up and over like a dolphin, plummeting
under the waves and moments later, shooting up again. It went at speed away from
the pier and Ewan described at least seven of these high speed dive, leap, dive,
leap figures before it made a final dive and Ewan didn't see it surface again.
The images of the playing otters stayed with Ewan all day; three sightings, albeit
one dead, nevertheless, two very much alive. Friday brought a day off work and
a visit to Skerries with birds, scenery, but no more otters. Saturday however,
brought a trip to Fetlar, where after exploring the island, visiting Funzie and
seeing huge boulders in fields where recent storms had hurled them, he met Roger
Brimmelow who recommended a walk east from the Hamarsness ferry pier.
Ewan took his time and kept his eyes peeled. Sure enough, as he approached Urie
Ness, he thought he saw something moving out in the water. Seal or otter? A black
blob some distance away, it was hard to be certain. He ducked down and waited.
After a while, a second blob appeared and then there was no doubt. Two otters
began to play, diving and cavorting about the shallows of the headland, giving
no sign of having seen him. Five otter sightings, in only three days!
Ewan began to walk back along the banks towards the pier when a large otter suddenly
raced past ahead of him, on its way from the hill to the sea. He stopped in astonishment
and watched it drop over the lip of the banks. Following after it, he peered
over the edge. There, right below him, the otter was crouching, motionless, possibly
waiting until, as it may have hoped, the human intruder had gone away. Then it
looked up and straight into Ewan's eyes.
In a flash it was across the beach and into the sea. There, to Ewan's amazement,
it turned back, standing on its back legs in the water and began to jerk its
head
at him, mouth opening wide, obviously making noises, though the combined sounds
of sea and wind prevented him from catching the sounds. He watched fascinated
as the animal raged at him, snaking its head backwards and forwards, sometimes
with a sideways, twisting motion, teeth bared. There was no mistaking the message;
clear off Anyway, Ewan had a ferry to catch.
A sixth otter! Not only that but, one displaying fantastic behaviour focussed
directly at him. It was unbelievable. On Saturday night we enjoyed his accounts
of all the otter sightings, sharing a few of our own, and eventually, Sunday
morning saw us going our different ways. I was surprised later, after a brief
run into Lerwick, to find a folded A4 sheet of paper with my name on it, lying
on the doormat. It was from Ewan. He had decided to take a short drive before
returning and heading for the airport and the flight to Glasgow. He had, completely
unexpectedly, seen four more otters!
Setting off down East Voe, he had decided, since his flight wasn't going until
2.30pm, to head out west for a last Shetland run, before turning back for Sumburgh.
He went as far as Bixter and stopped for a wander along a last piece of island
shoreline about 400 yards west of the village. I can't improve on his own report,
so here it is.
"I saw a female, with two young, playing on the frozen voe! They were punching
holes and popping in and out of the ice. Then they ran along the coast and settled
on the grass for five minutes rolling around and resting a little. I was five
to 10 metres away and took some pictures.
"Then they walked further along and I noticed an adult otter following them,
so I headed after all of them. About 50 metres further along the shore it caught
up with the three otters and the two adults had a very aggressive scrap. I watched
from only about five metres away. The youngsters stayed back until the fight
was over. Mother and young were constantly whistling to each other while the
scrap, face-off wound down. Then they wandered off across a field.
"The lone otter licked its wounds and then it spotted me, leaped up and
straight into the water, where it behaved very similarly to the Fetlar otter
on Saturday, facing me, moving its head and making noises. This time I could
hear very well clear snorts and sniffs. I left it alone at this point.
Fifteen minutes (of amazing otter watching) Absolutely amazing!" At that
point Ewan's description came to an end. Boy was I envious!
I have had some wonderful sightings myself over the years, most dramatic of all,
the time when I had one in the van with me; picked up apparently dead, but it
had only been stunned and came round with a vengeance. Once or twice I have glimpsed
a family playing, but so many sightings, in such a short space of time, never!
Not only that, Ewan witnessed truly extraordinary behaviour patterns as well.
Days may still be short, and the weather may have nasty surprises in store, but
nothing is going to stop me heading for the winter shores, in the hope of some
more otter watching thrills. Maybe winter isn't such a bad time for wildlife
watching after all.
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